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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate familiar award-winning names. However, situated prominently among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu found in a distant area of north London.

A Unexpected Honour

The small Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. This recognition has made the owners totally astonished.

“I am completely astonished,” states a family member, pointing to his family’s dedication that resulted in their modest shop securing such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its original feel. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the food, and this eatery more than excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender texture.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into many times that amount.

A Creed of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo beyond its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this culinary triumph.